This case is a very well thought out design, with some minor flaws. I primarily bought this case as I wanted a new AIO now, but want to go custom loop later when I build a new system. This case seemed perfect for my current needs.PROS:- Great build quality: The entire case and glass is very well packaged to protect everything, and I didn't have a single flaw in my case. No scratched paint, dented sides, blemishes, bad threads, or anything like this.- Great cooling: I was worried that not having airflow across my motherboard VRMs would become a problem, but my temps have dropped a bit from my last case with a Cooler Master T4 Heatsink with Noctua NF-F12 120MM Fan that was paired with 4 120MM Rosewill case fans. Those four Rosewill fans are not longer used, so the heat just rises out with my setup. Mind you I am currently only cooling a 7700k at 4.5 GHz and a GTX 1080, but are not overclocked.- Design. Standing up this case looks great, but you could easily take off the side panel and metal rod mounts and set the case on its back and use it as a test bench. You can also mount it on a wall or to a desk with a VESA mount, but considering how heavy a full build is, I would never try it.- Glass: The smoked tempered glass is perfect. Acrylic is too cheesy for such a nice a build.- PCI-E Riser Cable: It works flawlessly with my GIGABYTE GTX 1080 WindForce 3X OC. I was no difference in 3DMark scores with it installed directly to the PCI-E slot or using the riser cable, so it appears I got a newer cable or got very lucky, as they are known to be a huge problem online.CONS:The Thermaltake website and spec sheets list full 420MM radiator support. While my Arctic Freezer II 420 mounted fine, the radiator cannot be mounted perfect. There is a support piece in the upper right front of the case that slightly blocks the top right radiator screw just enough that it forces you to drop the entire radiator down slightly. Once I got to the bottom I could not thread in the bottom two screws for my radiator as the holes didn't line up. They are correct on the case, but because the radiator had to be shifted down slightly it won't line up. I also had one screw right behind a USB 3.0 front header that I couldn't mount because the cable was perfectly in the way. I have 9 out of 12 screws mounted though, so I have no fear of the radiator coming off or sliding around.- Cable management: This case has so much room in the pack I was able to fit 2x 3.5" HDDs in the mount and randomly stuff 3x 2.5" SSDs in to the back with room to spare.- Pointless dust filter: If you use this thing for water, the dust filter in the back of the case becomes 100% useless. It would only protect the cable management area where drives are mounted anyways in an air setup, and that is with the flow backwards from looks the best.- Instructions: My god are the instructions useless. The diagrams are horrible and don't explain anything. They are useful for checking you got all your necessary hardware as it has a parts list, but beyond that they were more harm than good. I STRONLY suggest you watch multiple YouTube videos for the install, as I watched over 5 and not a single one got everything right. Watching those, along with the following tips will greatly help.ASSEMBLY TIPS1.) If your motherboard has a CPU power connector up on the top of the board like most you need to remove the bottom HDD mount bracket from inside the case to run the cable behind it for better cable management. There are 4 screws for this on the motherboard side of the case. You don't need to remove the motherboard for this, there are two each side and that panel removes. I ran the cable underneath this bracket and reinstalled it. You can also do this without removing the bracket BEFORE you install your motherboard.2.) If mounting GPU vertically, make sure you don't mount the power supply sideways, there are two PSU brackets included in the kit. You can install the PSU with the fan facing towards the glass, but only with a Micro-ATX board and no vertical mounting. The case has hardware to do it both ways.3.) Make sure to attach the small support post to the power supply bracket BEFORE you install a power supply if you are going to install your GPU vertically with the riser cable. The power supply will block you from making this install. Use the flat screw designed to go into the recess on the PSU bracket so it mounts flat to your PSU.4.) Be very careful with the threads. The case is very thick, but case steel tends to be very soft. Some of the powder coat is in the threads, so if you feel any resistance at all, back your screw out and check them. I ended up just slowly backing the screws out and back in a few times when I had this issue, and it only happened 2-3 times across the entire build.5.) Carefully go through the hardware. There were 4 rubber plugs and washers that I thought were supposed to be anti-vibration mounts for a custom water pump, but they are actually rubber bushings and washers for the tempered glass panel. The plugs go into the glass to protect it, and the washers go on the thumb mounts for the glass. Totally protects the glass from any damage or vibration. Also make sure you are using the right screws for the right threads -- the manual is actual nice for this on the inside front pages, it lists how many of each screws or parts there should be -- but more importantly it lists exactly what it should be used for. You don't want to strip out a thread on this nice case.This case is my favorite I have ever had, and it is probably close to my 20th or so. I don't see myself needing a new case for a long time, and if I ever did change to a new one for any reason, this case would make a very good test bench, or maybe even a good closet wall mounted media server!