Before I get into the details, let me say that if all you need is to get your negatives to digital and you don’t need a lot of fancy control over your image, this is a good scanner to use. Once you get the hang of it (doesn’t take long), you can whip through a roll of negatives in not much time. I’m happy with this purchase as I don’t need anything beyond a basic scanning device. Now for the details.Edit December 2023: I've attached a few scans to show you the resolution. I believe I scanned all these at 22 megapixels. The kitchen & Renaissance Fest are negatives from the 80s, the group of 4 guys are clearly from the 1970s LOL, and the sunset is from mid-90s. These would have included some level of color balancing attempt by me, so they had light to moderate color cast. Hopefully they upload at good resolution so you can see that for old negatives, they look pretty decent.You manually feed negatives through this machine but so long as you have a full strip of negatives, pushing/pulling the strip though the machine is easy.I’m pretty sure that this isn’t a scanner in the way you would think. There’s no mechanical scanning sound which must mean that it is taking digital photographs of your negatives and slides. I don’t have any idea if that’s better or not, I’m just pointing it out.Be sure to set/check the date this is set to each time you use it. It will help you enormously in deciding what’s what as you copy off scans from the SD card.Slides show as very yellow-green on the screen. The slide itself is nothing like that color. Slides did not stay in place well in the tray (it’s possible, I guess, that the cardboard shrank since it’s so old) so I had to be really careful placing the slide in the tray and placing the tray in the scanner.Poorly cut negatives —ones that are a strip of two or three photos—are still workable in the 35mm tray. I’ve even managed to get single negatives in there good enough to get a scan.22 megapixel scans take 3 seconds, 14 megapixel scans take 1.5-2 seconds each.Whenever you turn it on, you have to select the format you’re scanning. However, if it is the same as the last time you did it, it remembers each of your previous choices so all you have to do is hit OK rather than re-select them.One thing I wish this scanner had was a reset button for all color and exposure adjustments you’ve made so you can start at the default when you want to.To record what the photos are of (Christmas 1978, for example) I wrote it on a small piece of paper and scanned the info at 14 megapixels. You can also change the date on the scanner to reflect the photo dates and that info will be recorded as the date on the file itself but that’s a lot of work.With each image it seems the scanner is giving its best evaluation of the exposure for the negative. Generally it does a good job. The manual brightness and RGB adjustments you can make are crude (not fine adjustments) and not very predictable in how they operate. Many times I’d change brightness one notch in a direction, decide it’s not good then go back to the original position and the image won’t look the same as it did before I made the adjustment. I had to go one over then go back one to get where I’d started. RGB adjustments on black and white don’t make a lot of sense either. For example, adjusting the red channel one notch will sometimes suddenly turn a black and white image from a bit milky to very contrasty. RGB adjustments on color can sometimes shift color drastically (though rarely—I’m not sure what conditions it has to be under to do this weirdness but it it didn’t do it often). Always try scanning each of your negatives in the default settings before adjusting. Sometimes I one shot needed adjustment while the next shot did not, and it had turned out the next shot looked good in the default RGB settings.The problem that others have mentioned of it not scanning the entire frame is my experience too. You lose about 1or 2% of the image mostly on the sides, so you have to frame it and decide which area you’re going to lose on the sides.110 film: what you will be scanning is a lot of border around the 110 size frame. The scan doesn’t adjust for the smaller size, so it’s basically like scanning the size of 35mm but the image only takes up maybe 60% of the scanned frame.I haven’t scanned 126 film yet, so I can’t comment on that. That will come much later. I’ll try to update when I get that far.